Baños Village and Region
Country: Ecuador.

 

The city of Baños is the destination of choice in Ecuador's Andean highlands, for both Ecuadorians and international travelers alike. And for good reason: a traveler would need at least a week to try all of the adventure and relaxation opportunities that this small town and its outlying areas have to offer. The weather itself is a draw with a year-round average temperature of 18C. The mountains around Baños stand like green walls, beyond which rises the imposing Tungurahua volcano, situated within the Sangay National Park. Once you find a good spot for viewing the volcano, you will be rewarded with shows of ashy eruptions during the day and, if you're lucky, nighttime eruptions complete with glowing lava flows.

Perhaps even before you get a glimpse of Tungurahua, you will notice the many waterfalls that grace this area. The most impressive cascade situated right in the city of Baños is the cascada de la virgen, or the virgin's hair waterfall. At the base of the waterfall is las piscinas de la virgen, one of the city's four sets of hot springs, or baños, from which the town gets its name. Try them all for their different views, temperatures and other features such as swimming pools and saunas. The hot springs are a perfect place for Ecuadorians and international travelers alike to meet and mix.

Whether you're ready to take in some activities before, after, or in between trips to the hot springs, there is no shortage of opportunities great and small. Right in town, visit the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Agua Santa, or Church of Our Lady of the Holy Water. You can purchase votive candles and other religious souvenirs from the vendors out front and then inside view the paintings which, according to one guidebook, make it look as if the volcano used to erupt daily and twice on Sundays. For a short but steep walk, head toward the large white statue of the virgin, or virgen mirador, halfway up the mountain on the northwest side of town. From there you can get a great view of the entire town of the Baños. For another short walk, head to the large bridge that crosses the Rio Pastaza. Before crossing, however, walk down to the older footbridge. From there you can see the river water rushing through a striking, narrow canyon. You can see other waterfalls from here that are not visible from Baños. If you're feeling adventurous, sign up for a rafting trip down the river.

Once you've acclimated to the nearly 2,000 meters (6,000 feet) in elevation, head for the hills. From the statue of the virgin, continue on the level footpath east until you come to your first sign for the mirador del volcan, or the volcano viewpoint. From there, continue following the signs. Bring plenty of water, a sunhat and good shoes, because this hike goes up, up and up for about three kilometers (nearly two miles). But the view of Tungurahua is stunning, especially on a clear day. Fortunately, there is a good halfway point between Baños and the volcano - Luna Runtun, a hotel, restaurant and spa that serves as a mountain oasis for weary hikers. Stop by for drinks, lunch or even a spa treatment, such as a much-needed massage.

When you're ready to explore for a full day or more, head just north of Baños into the Sangay National Park - a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site - by foot, mountain bike or horse. A number of tour operators can provide you with bicycles, horses and knowledgeable guides. The Sangay and nearby Llanganatis National Parks together encompass more than one million acres of protected land that include a wide variety of plant and animal species, some found only here. American botanist Lou Jost and his students have documented 71 new species of orchids in this area within just the last 10 years. A guide is essential if you plan to travel deep into these national parks. You may even want to venture a search for the lost treasure of the famous Inca leader Atahualpa.

Baños also lies along the Pastaza Corridor, the waterfall-rich length of the Pastaza River. Rent a bicycle and head west to take in the views at just the right speed (your own) to see the sights. Heading east from Baños is the ever-popular bike ride to Puyo, the first town within the Amazon rainforest. It' easy to understand why this bike ride is so popular- the all-day trip is downhill the entire way! Along the route, you will pass by many more waterfalls, including the famous Pailon de Diablo (Devil's Cauldron), a three-tiered waterfall with a whirlpool at the base. You can hire a tour operator to pick you up and return you to Baños at the end of the day.

Baños is known as the "gateway to the Amazon" not only for the ride to Puyo, but also because many reputable companies base their so-called jungle tours from here. As long as you've come this far, you can't miss your opportunity to see the Amazon rainforest. Book a tour for anywhere from a couple of days to a couple of weeks. You will have the opportunity to experience the sights, sounds and cultures of one of the most ecologically important and diverse regions in the world.

After all of this excitement, head back to the baños of Baños. Then, relaxed, return home with stories and memories to last a lifetime - and maybe plans to return.

We thank Olivier C. Currat of Luna Runtun for the content & photos of this article. For more information contact them at: www.lunaruntun.com